Body Diversity on the Catwalk: Does the Size of a Model Matter?

By Courtney Coleman

September 26, 2021

Discrimination takes many forms, but in the modeling industry, it manifests as a unique challenge. Countless women have grappled with the systematic requirements of being a model while striving to reach the top of their field. At the heart of this struggle lies a critical question: Does the size of a model truly matter?

The Industry's Size Bias

The size of a model plays a significant role in their career prospects. Many designers argue that certain body types don't represent their target demographic, while fashion houses often balk at the additional costs associated with creating samples in larger sizes. This bias has created a systemic barrier for models who don't fit the traditional, ultra-slim mold.

Voices of Change

Paloma Elsesser, a prominent plus-size model, shared her insights in a Vogue interview. She described the industry's discrimination as "passive, in the systemic way," pointing out the pervasive marginalization, racism, fatphobia, and transphobia that have been strategically woven into the fabric of the fashion world.

Elsesser notes that body diversity at fashion events often feels like "a trend." It's common to see only one model above a size zero, or brands attempting to distract from this lack of diversity with varied casting. However, she points out that this surface-level inclusivity rarely extends to the staff behind the brands.

The 'Plus-Size' Label

Ashley Graham, another trailblazing plus-size model, has spoken candidly about her experiences in a TED talk. She highlighted the arbitrary nature of the "plus-size" label in the fashion industry, which typically encompasses US sizes 8 to 16. Graham shared her frustration at not being able to simply identify as a "model" without the qualifying "plus-size" prefix.

Despite facing criticism, Graham has achieved remarkable success. She graced five major magazine covers in a single year and was one of the first curvy models to feature in Sports Illustrated's Swimsuit Edition. Her message is clear: "This is the generation of body diversity. The current is changing."

A Call for Change

Publications like Cosmopolitan and Vogue have long positioned themselves as champions of women's empowerment. It's crucial that these influential platforms continue to push for greater body diversity in the modeling industry.

Societal change across generations will foster personal growth, boosting confidence and self-awareness. It's important to recognize that fatphobia can manifest subtly, even in casual conversations. By addressing these biases head-on, we can work towards a more inclusive and diverse representation in the fashion industry.

As we move forward, it's clear that the size of a model shouldn't matter. What matters is the industry's willingness to embrace and celebrate diverse body types, reflecting the real world rather than perpetuating unrealistic standards.

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Works Cited

Danziger, Shaina, director. "9 Models on Racism & Privilege in the Modeling Industry | The Models." YouTube, 22 July 2020, https://youtu.be/x3Pvi4ACTNQ?t=240

Graham, Ashley. "Plus-Size? More Like My Size." YouTube, 27 May 2015, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAgawjzimjc