Subculture and Fashion: Trading Cultures?

By Courtney Coleman

November 28, 2021

The Blurred Lines of Cultural Influence

As an African American, I'm inherently drawn to social justice issues and the fashion statements we've made throughout history. Today, with hip hop and Black culture influencing mainstream fashion, we've lost a sense of division between what belongs to a specific culture and what's been appropriated as a trend.

This blurring of lines is problematic because certain elements hold significant power within communities, power that outsiders often fail to recognize or understand.

From "Ghetto" to Glamour: The Evolution of Black Beauty Standards

Consider the '90s aesthetic popularized on Pinterest: throwback updos, long decorated chunky nails, door knocker earrings, and multiple chunky rings. This style represents just one facet of Black beauty, reminiscent of 1980s Olympic track and field athlete Florence "Flo Jo" Griffith Joyner. While reporters marveled at her athleticism, they couldn't help but fixate on her iconic, flamboyant nails.

Today, long and chunky nails have become a widespread trend. It's worth noting that these same styles were once dismissed as "ghetto" and "unprofessional" when worn by people of color. Now that they've gone mainstream, their cultural origins are often overlooked or forgotten.

The Commodification of Logo Culture

The phenomenon of logo-mania, now a staple in mainstream fashion, has roots that stretch back to 1896 when Georges Vuitton, son of Louis Vuitton, designed the interlocking 'L' and 'V' logo with floral symbols. This Monogram Canvas became a signature element of the brand's bags, boxes, and luggage items.

However, it was Dapper Dan who revolutionized Black fashion in the 1980s and '90s, making luxury brands accessible to the Black community in unprecedented ways.

Dapper Dan: From Harlem's Hero to Fashion's Outlaw and Back Again

Operating out of his Harlem boutique, Dapper Dan began screen-printing logos of high-end brands like Gucci, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton onto leather, creating cutting-edge designs that the original brands had never envisioned. His creations caught the attention of major celebrities like Jay-Z, P Diddy, LL Cool J, and Floyd Mayweather, propelling his designs into the mainstream.

However, Dan's success was short-lived. By 1992, after facing numerous lawsuits for copyright violations and a raid on his boutique led by Fendi, he was forced to shut down his store. This closure created a void in the market for logo-printed fashions, which commercial fashion houses quickly moved to fill.

The Controversial Comeback

Dapper Dan's return to prominence in 2018 came in the wake of a cultural appropriation scandal involving Gucci. The luxury brand's Cruise show featured a balloon-sleeved mink bomber jacket that bore striking similarities to Dan's 1989 Louis Vuitton design for Diane Dixon. The garment sparked online outrage over appropriation.

In response, Gucci attempted to reframe the situation as an homage to Dan's work. They went as far as to collaborate with him on a collection inspired by his archive, release a limited edition book titled "Dapper Dan's Harlem," and make Dan the face of their #GucciTailoring campaign. Gucci also invited Dan to collaborate on new creations, supplying him with fabrics for his designs.

Reflection on Cultural Exchange in Fashion

This complex history raises important questions about cultural exchange, appropriation, and recognition in the fashion industry. While collaborations like the one between Gucci and Dapper Dan can be seen as a step towards acknowledging the contributions of Black culture to high fashion, they also highlight the industry's historical reluctance to credit these influences.

As we move forward, it's crucial to recognize and celebrate the origins of trends and styles, ensuring that the communities who created them receive proper recognition and compensation for their cultural contributions to the fashion world.

WORK CITED

Bricks Team. “A BRIEF HISTORY OF TRENDS THAT ORIGINATED FROM BLACK COMMUNITIES.” BRICKS UK, https://bricksmagazine.co.uk/2020/06/29/black-culture-in-fashion-a-brief-history-of-trends-that-originated-from-black-communities/, 29 June 2020.

BOF Team. “Dapper Dan.” Business of Fashion, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/dapper-dan, 2019

For Images:

A Conversation Moderated by Dapper Dan. “Dapper Dan Explains the Birth of His Legendary 'Knock-Up' Logo Clothing.” Esquire, 6 June 2019, https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a27453907/dapper-dan-made-in-harlem-book-autobiography/.